Ive played with the timing on this thing multiple times.Car was fullly restored last year. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. That will happen occasionally, but less as time goes and on and the engine tune stabilizes. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. This may sound crazy but I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you don't have an idle issue--you have a timing issue. One way is to very carefully watch the handheld monitor, and that may be adequate. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. Comp. Rpm with 4-8 iac but it still shows red and shuts off randomly at idle and it won't even drive 2 miles without shutting off. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issues. Is there away to lean the idle out? Chris, That could be a problem with the TPS or it could be some sort of throttle linkage issue. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. I haven't driven it for the 30-40 minutes like the several times it idled at 2200. The throttle plates are misaligned. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). Yes, you are correct. In the datalog the engine is running at 1400 RPM, TPS is zero, IAC is zero, CTS is 185F but it's in Open Loop. But if you will just advance the timing at idle and see if it makes a difference then that will tell you what you need to know. The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. Reducing that a bit will help. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. any ideas? :-). Did you find this enlightening? It then started working normally again. He is able to get it to start by quickly depressing the accelerator to at least 60% and releasing. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! Be sure to re-enable it once you get your idle tuned. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. Repeat until that stumble goes away, and then try a bit more throttle. Hi Chris , greetings from Down Under (AUS) Just a note on the hi fuel pressure issue . If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. Bryan McTaggart 02/28/2023 news Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. Do you have a PCV on the engine? Thank you for your input. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. What an amazing site you have here. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. One additional wrap on the secondary coiled shaft spring is all that's necessary. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. If your mixture is too rich, it means there's too much fuel and not enough air. On EFI systems such as Holley's Sniper, all of the EFI sensors (except for the O2 and coolant temperature sender) are mounted snuggly in the throttle body. This is more of a bit of a reality check. My issue is that the TP% will not reset with key cycle and its idleing at 9% TP. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. All times are GMT-6. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. The problem was RF interferance . Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. The throttle position should be zero. Thanks. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. While adjusting the screw if the TPS position reads begins to read higher than 0% cycling the ignition switch will recalibrate the TPS back to zero. !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the If you haven't installed a Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. Start with the most gradual throttle input you need to launch well, then slightly increase until you feel some stumble. It drops about 200rpm when clutch engages. It sounds a little different from mine, since it commands a 1300 or so increase intermittently. If your TPS is at zero and your IAC is at some random number above 8% (but not exactly 30%) then for some reason your engine has not met the conditions to ramp down to target idle. Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. If this is the case then some adjustment of the linkage or the butterfly plates themselves is necessary. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. The window you saw in the image above pops up. I set it exactly like the instructions said and my iac is not only all over the place but when I finally did get it to the 2-10 range it's highlighted in red. Ok, we have enough Sniper systems out there that I thought it would be a good idea to create a posting on challenges that might arise during installation. The weather in Ct has finally improved and I have put about 60 miles on the car with the Sniper system. Do please let us know what you find out! Very annoying ended up being simple my rear plates would stay open constantly it was driving me nuts I'd let off the pedal idle at 1300 blip the throttle a few times finally come back to 850. Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. 1. I've read that a spacer with 4 individual holes will solve this, but after I installed the progressive linkage the noise went away!! idle at 1100 on the "stock" file it's better with street strip.The IAC counts will be at zero. I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. I thought 12.0 was leaner at idle, but I figured out I was wrong.lol. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. But I am having troubles.When stepping on the accelerator slightly with idling, it will be 2000 RPM all the time. However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. I.e. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. I have a Holley Sniper for almost 11 month now and it was running fine with no problems until now. EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Thanks for any help. Tps is saying 26% when it at idle. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. The small rubber plug had a leak. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. This page was generated at 12:26 AM. Let But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. Cycled the ignition off. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive.
What Is An Example Of Offscreen Diegetic Sound?,
Is The Second Dose Of Suprep Necessary,
Articles H